derek guy Profile picture
Jun 6, 2023 15 tweets 8 min read Read on X
YOU SHOULD CONSIDER HIGH-RISE TROUSERS

I think I've been writing mainly for menswear-obsessed guys for so long that it had not occurred to me that high-rise trousers could still be controversial in 2023. So let's run through some points. 🧵
First, if you're wearing a tailored jacket (e.g., suit jacket or sport coat), you should wear high-rise trousers. Low-rise trousers create this ugly shirt triangle below the buttoning point. High-rise trousers create a more coherent, streamlined look between jacket and pants ImageImage
Some people think that high-rise trousers look old-fashioned and out of date. First, I think you should dress for your body type, not according to trends. Low-rise jeans and trousers are best on stick-thin models, who they were created for. ImageImage
A lot of stick-thin guys though are not wearing them in that edgy, cool way. They are wearing them in this really bland way, and the effect ends up making your torso look weirdly long and your legs weirdly short. Image
High-rise trousers lengthen your leg line and bring the proportion between your torso and legs into better balance. It had not occurred to me that some people could still think they're categorically bad, so let's run through some stereotypes:
"High-rise trousers aren't cool." ImageImageImageImage
"High-rise trousers are for older guys." ImageImageImageImage
"High-rise trousers don't work for bigger guys." ImageImage
In the summertime, when it's too hot to layer, it's even more important that your shirt and pants are on point. One way to create a more flattering, stylish silhouette is to wear higher-rise trousers. Pair with a tucked linen button-up shirt or a camp collar shirt. Super easy. ImageImageImage
Of course, as ever, people can wear what they want. I am only presenting my views. But this summer outfit is cool as hell, and the trousers add a lot to the look. If you haven't yet considered higher-rise trousers, I think you should give them a chance.
Some people have asked for options. I'm tweeting this with great trepidation bc anytime I mention something over $50, ppl get mad. The following spans a large price range, so if you encounter something out of your budget, keep going down the list (they are, however, above $100)
For trousers (in no particular order):

Dapper Classics, O'Connell's, Rota selection at No Man Walks Alone, The Armoury, Spier & Mackay, Besnard, Scott Fraser Simpson, J. Press, The Andover Shop, Casatlantic, and Berg & Berg

When shopping, check measurements and return policy.
For jeans, you don't want an actual high rise. You want just something a little higher than the low-rise stuff. So check:

Levis Vintage Clothing 1947 501s, Drake's, The Armoury, 3sixteen CS cut, Orslow 105 and 107, and Blackhorse Lane N3. I would also contact @selfedge for recs
i didn't want to say it, but yes. I still don't think you should dress according to trends, but the reality is that young people are into wider fits and higher rises, while older people are the ones in the slim fit, low rise silhouette of the early 2000s

ImageImage
every counter argument in this thread uses photos that literally look nothing like the examples that i've posted (which, by the way, are of real people in normal settings, not professional photoshoots). whereas i use real examples of how actual ppl look in low rise pants ImageImageImageImage

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More from @dieworkwear

16h
I respectfully disagree. To me, this represents a poor financial decision. Let me show you why. 🧵
When we zoom in on the wallet, we see the label "Saint Laurent Paris," a French luxury fashion house that became popular about ten years ago when Kanye started wearing the label. This was also when Hedi Slimane was at the company's creative helm. Image
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For many young men at the time, Saint Laurent was their entry into designer fashion, partly because the designs were conceptually approachable (LA rocker, Hot Topic), while the Kanye co-sign made them cool and the prices signaled status (and for the uninformed, suggested quality) Image
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Read 18 tweets
May 24
When I was on a menswear forum, navy trousers were of great controversy. Discussions about them lasted many years, resulting in long-lasting rivalries. Sometimes people refrained from speaking about them out of fear of dredging up old debates.

Here's a thread on navy pants 🧵
First, I should state at the outset that there's no way to have this conversation without, in some way, speaking crudely about certain classes of people. I make no judgements about their worth or dignity. I am only describing the semiotics of men's dress.
Second, everything depends on your goals. Dress is not a science, so there are no overriding laws. Everything is contextual to culture. More on this later

Before we start, here are two outfits involving green sport coats. Which do you like better? Please choose before moving on. Image
Image
Read 20 tweets
May 20
I get this question a lot. I don't have strong views on how transmasc people should dress, but since I often get the question, I've thought about it a bit. Will share some thoughts in this thread. 🧵
My general feeling is that this question often approaches the idea of style from a perspective I don't share. I don't believe in approaching dress first from the perspective of body type. For instance, there are a lot of guides online that break down body types like this. Image
I disagree with this perspective because they always seem to be about forcing the person into one narrow ideal. So if you're short, they tell you how to wear certain things to give the illusion of height. Or if you're heavy, they say how you can dress to hide your weight. Image
Read 21 tweets
May 20
I don't think people such as Hegesth are intentionally choosing to dress like this to signal they're "not like the swamp." I think we're simply in a generational change in terms of taste. Will show some examples. 🧵
A hundred years ago, men's dress was governed by time, place, and occasion (TPO). If you were of a certain social position and had to do a certain thing, you were expected to wear certain outfits. If you didn't know these rules, a tailor would tell you. Image
Over the course of the 20th century, these rules loosened, partly because society became more accepting of different social groups and their lifestyles (which is a good thing). By the close of the 20th century, the rise of business casual swept tailoring out of offices Image
Read 20 tweets
May 15
Anthony Constantino, CEO of Sticker Mule, says that he would use a US manufacturer for his company's t-shirts. However, he feels the US company doesn't meet his quality standards and they "must maintain quality."

So what constitutes a quality t-shirt? Let's find out. 🧵
For reference, I'm comparing Sticker Mule's t-shirts (made in Nicaragua) to Bayside Apparel (fully made in the US from fiber to finish). Sticker Mule charges $19 for their t-shirts. Organizations that print on Bayside blanks sell their merch for $27. Image
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I should state at the outset that to properly determine quality, I would need to send these t-shirts to a lab, which I'm unable to do because I don't own a Sticker Mule t-shirt. Additionally, quality can be subjective, as it depends on your preferences.
Read 20 tweets
May 10
It's very hard to find a suit jacket that can be worn with jeans, assuming you mean the kind of suits that would be worn for business. Let me show you. 🧵
What do we mean by "suit?" The term suit simply means that the jacket and pants were cut from the same cloth. You can have corduroy suits or linen suits. But when most people say suit, they mean the kind of outfits that would be worn for business, funerals, and court. Image
Image
Such materials are typically dark in color and slick in feel. Historically, men wore these things with white dress shirts, dark ties, and black oxford shoes to do business in London. This history is why this outfit telegraphs "I'm here for serious business." Image
Read 12 tweets

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